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Trimming, Accurate pruning is one of the most effective and significant methods of determining whether a tree or bush are growing properly and effectively or not. Actually, pruning to be specific it’s an incorrect implementation, is also a very often responsible for the rapid damages it has caused unsatisfactory growth which leads to an early death in plants. However, it’s not also possible to acquire the knowledge of the art of pruning in an elaborated practical approach by reading lot of articles, it’s nevertheless a realistic to expecting to grab a wide understanding the techniques and principles behind it on either to know what to do or what not to do.


The adequate rules and principles are any plant which is quite sensitive to cold should not in any way be pruned until every possibility of the frost has entirely passed for the actual year. The main reason behind this is that pruning wounds do not actually heal adequately and also it tends to become a source of bacterial and fungal infection. On the other path, deciduous plants which are those that have evolved in cold temperature climate should be entirely be pruned during the dormant season{i.e. WINTER} mainly not in the spring, as at the time previous years, pruning normally causes the sap in the plants  tissues in other to “BLEED” out of the plant.

However, in the cold section, pruning is actually been carried out at the initial stage of the  winter, in a mild winter climate, where the actual minimum temperatures normally reach  up to 4c,the pruning of deciduous plant should be intentionally be delayed until the end of the winter period.


This is actually one of the big mistakes in removing too many materials from a particular specimen at just one time. One of the difficult guides determines that no one-third of the entire volumes of branches should mistakenly be pruned. The majority of gardeners do set a maximum amount at far lesser than that. Be very remindful that any excessive pruning, even at a time when a plant is dormant, it drastically affects the plant nutrient and energy level. If in any way a lot of material is to be cut down, then the pruning should perfectly be staggered for the decade of over two solid years or even more.


The nature and excellent quality of the pruning cut normally affect the ability of the trees or shrubs in overcoming the wounds which are been inflicted on it. There is actually a quite approach among some will informed gardeners in which pruning is “GOOD” for the plant. This is specifically all about the good of plant just as surgery is good for people. This should be amicably being carried out with a clear awareness that every wound is a source of infection.         This was admitted that woody plants do possess their own brand of “DEFENSE MECHANISM” which is keen to isolate the root and also the decay which develops from the wounds caused by pruning, perhaps there is also a limit on how far this is mean to be possible. Below are some concrete guidelines that will give you a better understanding.


  1. The size of the cutting tools should be very small to the equivalent width of the branch or trunk whereby the wound is actually been formed.
  2. Small stubs should not be left out of this; these are actually the subject of a lot of bacterial and fungal attack, in which this can proceed into the main trunk or branch on itself. On the other path, the cuts which were made too flush with the trunk, involve in the appearing to have calloused over, it can also cause too much rot in developing behind of them and also within the trunk. It is quite certain and important to cutting it off, just close the joint in between the branch which is to be entirely removed and the trunk which will also be attached to it.
  3. The pruning saws have to be very sharp, this will make the cutting be very neat and clean. However, a jagged torn cut, on the other hand, has an overall wound surface area which grows constantly compared to the clean and neat cutting, meanwhile, this tends to reduce the tree’s capacity to the isolation of the entire infections which consequently increase the chances of rot and decays functionality.



If your desire for your tree is to grow very strong and also have an enticing and attractive, neat outlook, it is quite advisable to constantly prune them excellently. With the method of pruning, you can actually create very wonderful and attractive shapes, removes all the damages branches and also allows for the new growth of another tree. Actually, on any pruning work, you really have to be very specific on what is needed to be pruned and then carry along with tree pruning with and also minimizing damage. The below tips would be a great useful and effective tree pruning exercise.



Put allot of time in visualizing the tree shape and also the size in other to have a clearer instinct and imagination on how it will look like after you are through with the pruning. With this tip, it gives you a great hint on how exactly you want the tree to be trimmed.

Locate the major branches that set up the body of the tree. It is quite necessary to observe in other not to pull off the branches.


If should in case a branch is been damaged by any related storm or broken for some reasons, it necessary to be pruned in other for the nutrients and water in which it’s been redistributed to all healthy branches.



This gives way and also promotes the circulation of ventilation among tree branches and also encourages a very healthy tree growth. Close branches attract a lot of insects and foster fungus growth. The trees that grow towards the tree center are actually tended to be unhealthy and which causes clutter.


These are types of branches that are actually blocking the walkways of allot of individuals or those who are quite higher and also threatening one’s telephone wires. In this scenario, all the branches that cause any obstruction are advisable to be pruned.


If you desire to see the unique outlook of a tree, the branches need to be pruned for a perfect and neat shape. The actual shape you desire for your tree outlook play a very significant and important role in other to determine the branches which are needed for pruning.


strubs & Trees Time

You need to remind yourself that any cut you made on the tree tends to expose the protectiveness bark and also makes it susceptible to other vulnerable insect’s infestations and fungus. Any pruning task should be less than 25% of the branches. Try as much as possible to avoid pruning a tree more than once in a year except it is been broken. Co-incidentally if a branch is broken before it perhaps preferable to pruning time, it is also advisable to have the entire branch pruned instantly.

To avoid damaging your tree in the process of pruning, the best time to prune your tree should be during the winter when the entire tree is dormant. First of all, you have to cut the underside of the branches{THE STEM COLLAR} in other to prevent it from further cracking so close to the tree truck whenever it is ready  to fall off immediately after pruning.

Secondly, each cut should be implemented in other to penetrate through the branches not actually too close to the trunk.

Finally, try as much as possible to eradicate the stud but be very certain that the stem collar remains untouched in other to facilitate faster and effective healing.

After the entire process is been done, it is wise able to clean all the pruning tools. You need to disinfect the entire tools in other to avoid any further infection and spread of disease literally from one tree to another.


                            TREE PRUNING METHODS.

The pruning methods are actually mainly for backyard home type of trees and not basically for orchard tree type pruning.

Pruning of trees and shrubs will definitely create a very enticing and good looking landscaping tree and will also tend to increase the life span of any varieties of trees or plant. If eventually the proper steps are been taken properly it will also maximize and increase the productivity of the entire fruit trees.

  1. If your intention on pruning is to keep the entire tree size down, unfortunately, this usually means the wrong selection of tree for the landscaping environment.
  2. You definitely have to prune dead, dying of limbs or the branches which tend to be disease no matter where they are from.
  3. Pruning of the entire limbs or branches which are distracting with the power lines traffics and also the visibility from streets.
  4. It is necessary to prune branches which tend to be overhanging into the neighbor’s yard. It is advisable to notify your neighbor if your decision is okay by them.
  5. Prune the trees if it’s necessary to be pruned.



  1. HAND SHEARS- This is used for pruning little twigs and other branches.
  2. POLE PRUNER – It is mainly used for the pruning and cutting of branches or limbs that are 6ft tall or more.
  3. CHAIN SAWS – These are used for the larger kinds of branches which tend to be 3 inches diameter or more.
  4. EYEWEAR GOGGLES – It is quite advisable to wear eye protection each time you are pruning shearing, cutting or doing any heavy work in the garden.
  5. LOPPER SHEARS – This is excellent for larger kinds of branches which are normally 1.5 inches or less in diameter.


  • Yes, it is quite necessary to call on professionals for larger types of trees. Before then, you have to be very sure and certain that the company are licensed, insure and bonded. This actually varies on any categories of landscaping professionals. If should in case there is a power line involved call, you tend to call the power line company for any further inquiries.Take note, do not intend to cut off larger and overhanging branches by yourself.


  • Do not prune any larger kinds of branches from trees that are quite hanging over any types of electrical or the power line. It is necessary to call on the professional landscapers.



  • Do not in any way attach any type of pruning sealer on a trimmed off branch or limb. The entire trees and shrubs have their own respective techniques of healing any cut or wound. Always remember to clean all the pruning equipment blades with alcohol in other to avoid the spread of harmful disease.



If your wish is to have a green landscape but you don’t have to actual time to spend on caring for it, the shrub is the better and excellent approach to consider. Carefully and properly selected shrubs are very easy to care for which is sure in providing you with years of continued interest.



Exactly like other categories of gardening, selection of shrubs for the landscape generally means paying full attention and concentration to the entire condition in which the shrubs will be planted in and also confirming what you desire from the initial planting. If you have no idea or have not tested your garden soil, testing of your soil is very important before any further

spending of funds on the landscaping. Again, you will also need to take a very look at the entire area of the garden in other to see the types and categories of soil you have either Sandy soil, Organic soil, or Clay soil and also knowing the type of light each area of the garden attains.


Plants always feel comfortable and excited where ever they are placed in which they will grow rapidly and expectedly in which it won’t need any other excessive cooling. Amazing shrubs are very easy to grow shrubs. You can actually visualize the needs of plants by examining the plant tags, catalog descriptions or the good and informing reference books. Whenever you went on shopping for plants, it is advisable to make a plan by listing out what will excellently grow well and good without the stress of purchasing shrubs that are just attractive to the eyes or they are actually for sale.


It is good to be very attentive and observant to the adult size and shapes of the shrubs, in which it will list on the tags or the references. However, small and cut does not conclude or mean that it will get to the stage of being huge. Be very mindful on the area you plant your shrubs in other not to cause any obstructions to the house or the walkway, in other not to prevent ventilation coming in through the windows when they reach to the huge stage. Meanwhile, you can still prune majority of the shrubs, you have to know that continues pruning does not guarantee or equal to flexible or easy care.


Always notify yourself that there might be the majority of the cultivar of the same very species of the shrubs, in which most of them might likely fit your property in a unique appearance compare to others. For instance, there is arborvitae that normally grows into a stage of the tree and also those that stay are very low and globe shape. There are also junipers that hung around and also those that grow very tall and narrow. We also have the dwarf version of the majority kinds of shrubs. Some of the types might be more winter hardy in your very own zone compared to the others.



The arborvitaes or the cedars come in numerous numbers of different sizes. The majority of them are soft, flat needle and also with a unique and pleasant smell. Some of the arborvitaes with variegated foliage for the additional interest. However, arborvitae is known in growing well and properly on a very large area of the country.


Meanwhile, there are also categories forms of juniper in a different shade of green and gold. Juniper normally has a sharper needle and they seem to be some other forms that actually grow as far north as zone 4 and as far south as zone 7.


If should in case you have acidic soil and light shade in other to full sun, a Holly may be the right approach for you. Hollies do have broad leaves but they tend to be evergreen. While some other hollies become much larger in a very short span of time, so it is quite advisable to choose carefully. If should in case you have both the male and female plant, you will definitely reward red berries in winter.


Meanwhile, the majority of other acid soil lover who refers some of the shade and also the protection from the winter wind is actual the azaleas and the rhododendrons. There large and small types of the both. If the position is in a very nice and right place it normally requires little care and will also provide you with astonishing and beautiful flowers. Some of the other types are not evergreen in the entire climate.

When it comes to the drier southwestern areas, Manzanita is quite broad-leaved evergreen shrubs that are established small, bright red, and also with an apple like the fruit summer.


The Lilacs do grow so easily and faster in which they have tended to become widespread in many areas. They do grow in the entire areas except for the far south and the desert southwest. They can actually become larger, so it is wise able to make use of them where they tend to have plenty room, full sunlight and good circulations of air are also excellent for lilac. You will actually reap it with bountiful and lovely flowers in spring.


If you reside in California or the Southwest, your wish may be to grow Ceanothus in one of its many forms instead of the lilac. They do have nice foliage with a pretty blue summer flower which also attracts a lot of butterflies.

Viburnums also grow so easily with a wide range of flowers and fruit types, but the four feet tall is entirely been considered as a small viburnum.The best usage of it is when they don’t necessary be pruned and also allowed to have the natural shapes.However,there are viburnums for both zone 3 up to  zone 8.

Forsythia is also another shrub that looks excellent when it been allowed to establish its own natural forms. This hardy from the zone 3 up to zone 8.Meanwhile, beautiful and attractive golden flowers do covers it in spring.

The burning bush and the Euonymus alata is a large and widely planted shrub in the zone 3 up to zone 7.It has a very intelligent and brilliant red fall coloring. This variety prefers the full sunlight and also with a yearly pruning is the best recommended.

Always remember the new shrub roses. These normally come in different varieties of size, from the groundcover up to the large shrubs. There is actually a larger range of colors. They also blossom in the entire summer which does not require any further spraying. They may actually die back to the very root in a cold climate, but they are fast and speedy in recovery. The dead branches definitely need to be pruned out each spring, but thereafter that little pruning is actually needed on it.

The barberries are thorny shrubs with very small leaves. The majority of them have deep purple or crimson foliage all the year. They do come in different varieties of size and also prefers a full sun in the zone 4 up to the zone 7.

However, the western coastal vicinities, they hardy native shrubs, holodiscus discolor or the creambush with its own very spray of the creamy white, sweet and nice smelling flower is a very considerable and good choice.

While in the coastal southwest, Rosemary tends to become the largest fragrance shrub with nice and beautiful blue flowers all around it. It quite tough and drought resistant and it’s actually great for cooking.




  • Abelia (Abelia)
  • Acer (Maple)
  • Actinidia (Actinidia)
  • Aloe (Aloe)
  • Aralia (Angelica Tree, Hercules’ Club)
  • Arctostaphylos (Bearberry, Manzanita)
  • Aronia (Chokeberry)
  • Artemisia (Sagebrush)
  • Aucuba (Aucuba)



  • Berberis (Barberry)
  • Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea)
  • Brugmansia (Angel’s Trumpet)
  • Buddleja (Butterfly Bush)
  • Buxus (Box)




  • Calia (Mescalbean)
  • Callicarpa (Beautyberry)
  • Callistemon (Bottlebrush)
  • Calluna (Heather)
  • Calycanthus (Sweet shrub)
  • Camellia (Camellia, Tea)
  • Caragana (Pea-tree)
  • Carpenteria (Carpenteria)
  • Caryopteris (Blue Spiraea)
  • Cassiope (Moss-heather)
  • Ceanothus (Ceanothus)
  • Celastrus (Staff vine)
  • Ceratostigma (Hardy Plumbago)
  • Cercocarpus (Mountain-mahogany)
  • Chaenomeles (Japanese Quince)
  • Chamaebatiaria (Fernbush)
  • Chamaedaphne (Leather leaf)
  • Chimonanthus (Winter sweet)
  • Chionanthus (Fringe-tree)
  • Choisya (Mexican-orange Blossom)
  • Cistus (Rockrose)
  • Clerodendrum (Clerodendrum)
  • Clethra (Summer sweet, Pepperbush)
  • Clianthus (Glory Pea)
  • Colletia (Colletia)
  • Colutea (Bladder Senna)
  • Comptonia (Sweetfern)
  • Cornus (Dogwood)
  • Corylopsis (Winter-hazel)
  • Cotinus (Smoketree)
  • Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster)
  • Cowania (Cliff rose)
  • Crataegus (Hawthorn)
  • Crinodendron (Crinodendron)
  • Cytisus and allied genera (Broom)



  • Daboecia (Heath)
  • Danae (Alexandrian laurel)
  • Daphne (Daphne)
  • Decaisnea (Decaisnea)
  • Dasiphora (Shrubby Cinquefoil)
  • Dendromecon (Tree poppy)
  • Desfontainea (Desfontainea)
  • Deutzia (Deutzia)
  • Diervilla (Bush honeysuckle)
  • Dipelta (Dipelta)
  • Dirca (Leatherwood)
  • Dracaena (Dragon Tree)
  • Drimys (Winter’s Bark)
  • Dryas (Mountain Avens)




  • Edgeworthia (Paper Bush)
  • Elaeagnus (Elaeagnus)
  • Embothrium (Chilean Fire Bush)
  • Empetrum (Crowberry)
  • Enkianthus (Pagoda Bush)
  • Ephedra (Ephedra)
  • Epigaea (Trailing Arbutus)
  • Erica (Heath)
  • Eriobotrya (Loquat)
  • Escallonia (Escallonia)
  • Eucryphia (Eucryphia)
  • Euonymus (Spindle)
  • Exochorda (Pearl Bush)





  • Fabiana (Fabiana)
  • Fallugia (Apache Plume)
  • Fatsia (Fatsia)
  • Forsythia (Forsythia)
  • Fothergilla (Fothergilla)
  • Franklinia (Franklinia)
  • Fremontodendron (Flannel bush)
  • Fuchsia (Fuchsia)




  • Garrya (Silk-tassel)
  • Gaultheria (Salal)
  • Gaylussacia (Huckleberry)
  • Genista (Broom)
  • Gordonia (Loblolly-bay)
  • Grevillea (Grevillea)
  • Griselinia (Griselinia)




  • Hakea (Hakea)
  • Halesia (Silver bell)
  • Halimium (Rockrose)
  • Hamamelis (Witch-hazel)
  • Hebe (Hebe)
  • Hedera (Ivy)
  • Helianthemum (Rockrose)
  • Hibiscus (Hibiscus)
  • Hippophae (Sea-buckthorn)
  • Hoheria (Lacebark)
  • Holodiscus (Cream bush)
  • Hudsonia (Hudsonia)
  • Hydrangea (Hydrangea)
  • Hypericum (Rose of Sharon)
  • Hyssopus (Hyssop)



  1. Ilex (Holly)
  2. Illicium (Star Anise)
  3. Indigofera (Indigo)
  4. Itea (Sweetspire)



  1. Jamesia (Cliff bush)
  2. Jasminum (Jasmine)
  3. Juniperus (Juniper)



  1. Kalmia (Mountain-laurel)
  2. Kerria (Kerria)
  3. Kolkwitzia (Beauty-bush)



  1. Lagerstroemia (Crape-myrtle)
  2. Lapageria (Copihue)
  3. Lantana (Lantana)
  4. Lavandula (Lavender)
  5. Lavatera (Tree Mallow)
  6. Ledum (Ledum)
  7. Leitneria (Corkwood)
  8. Lespedeza (Bush Clover)
  9. Leptospermum (Manuka)
  10. Leucothoe (Doghobble)
  11. Leycesteria (Leycesteria)
  12. Ligustrum (Privet)
  13. Lindera (Spicebush)
  14. Linnaea (Twinflower)
  15. Lonicera (Honeysuckle)
  16. Lupinus (Tree Lupin)
  17. Lycium (Boxthorn)




  1. Magnolia (Magnolia)
  2. Mahonia (Mahonia)
  3. Malpighia (Acerola)
  4. Menispermum (Moonseed)
  5. Menziesia (Menziesia)
  6. Mespilus (Medlar)
  7. Microcachrys (Microcachrys)
  8. Myrica (Bayberry)
  9. Myricaria (Myricaria)
  10. Myrtus and allied genera (Myrtle)


  1. Neillia (Neillia)
  2. Nerium (Oleander)     For More Info Contact Us at 516-9031082  & 631-9931039